Tobairín na Teampaill, Little Well of the Church, Durrus

You need sharp eyes to spot this tiny little well. It is literally cut out of the side of a bank, the area heavily overgrown with ferns. When I first visited in 2016, I cleared away a little of the undergrowth to reveal asmall, rectangular, stone basin; the water fresh and clear

Traditionally this well was visited on St John’s Eve, 23rd June, and seems to have been part of the rounds centred on the grave of Father Barnane in the nearby churchyard at Maulinward, just a stroll up the road. This is an interesting and probably ancient site, referred to by the Irish Tourism Association Survey for Cork (ITA) as Durrus Abbey, possibly founded in the 6th century. Local information and folklore also suggests it’s the site of the earliest church in the area and may indeed have been a small monastery. It certainly has the feel of an early ecclesiastic enclosure with its circular walls nestling on a small hillock. It has an interesting origin story described here by collector, Chrissie Murnane:

In the townland of Moulivard parish of Durrus Co. Cork is situated a graveyard. In it there are the ruins of an old church. The old people say that it was built in a night by the angels. There is a tradition in the locality that the “feet water” should not be thrown out till morning. But an old woman who lived in the vicinity opened her door about midnight and threw out the water. She saw the lights in the distance and went towards them. The lights went out and the unknown builders stopped their work and never finished it in consequence of the action of the old woman in throwing out the “feet water”. (SFC: 002:0285)

The remains of this church, noted for its massive stonework, probably date from the 14th or 15th centuries, and although it is now an atmospheric ruin, it was in use until the mid 17th century. By 1699 the church was abandoned although the graveyard remained open. After the death of Father Denis Barnane in 1834, his grave became a focal point of pilgrimage and was renowned for the cures that continued to be attributed to him, even after his death. He was a parish priest (1790-1818), renown for his healing skills for both humans and animals and seems to have been much loved by the local community. He was less favoured by the established church but is reputed to have said: I’m dying, I’m in bad health and when I am dead, I’ll cure the same as I do now.

That his prophecy was correct is borne out by a description in the Irish Tourism Association Survey (ITA) which describes a miraculous cure concerning a crippled child who had never walked unaided. The family wished to go to America but the boy was refused entry seemingly on account of his disability. The mother took the boy to the grave of the priest on three successive Fridays and paid the rounds.

…scarcely had the last round been completed when the boy cast away his crutches and in due course sailed with his mother to America.

ITA, Cork, 1940s

The ITA also gives a helpful description of the rounds which began by the east gable of the church, continued clockwise around the church, coming over the stile at the west end, continuing over the stile at the east end until a full circle had been undertaken,

Although pilgrimages could be made at anytime, the main pattern day was St John’s Eve, 23rd June and even in the 1940s, the focus clearly remained on Father Barnane’s grave :

The grave, containing the remains of a parish priest named Father Barnane, is situated just outside the ruined walls of the church and here people perform rounds for various ailments on St John’s Eve and other times during the year. Many cures have resulted from pilgrimages to the grave. The custom is still practiced to a great extent.

ITA, Cork

Father Barnane for all his holiness was known to have enjoyed a wee drop and it was traditional to leave a bottle of whiskey on his grave. The grave was identified to me by a local man who remembered his mother frequently visiting and paying her respects. A little careful uncovering and a mass of broken glass and ceramic bottles was revealed scattered on top of the grave.

Not only was Father Barnane’s grave visited, but two relics, presumably belonging to the priest, were also described in the ITA as being part of the round. Two relics, a skull and shinbone, were kept inside the church which pilgrims touched as they completed the rounds. Today just a small poignant fragment of a skull remains, tucked into a bullaun stone alongside many other offerings – a rosary, coins, statues, a small whiskey bottle.  

But what of the well? This always seems to have played second fiddle to the grave of Father Barnane, at least since his death. The ITA informs:

On the roadside some 300 yards from the churchyard is located a little well – Tobareen an Teampaill. The Well of the Church, as the name suggests, but it is not known if it ever attracted pilgrims.

ITA, Cork

It would have seemed odd if it didn’t attract pilgrims with such a well-attended pattern going on nearby and an entry in the Schools’ Folklore Collection confirms that it was included in the rounds and that cures were also attributed to it:

In Durrus cemetery … there is a holy well which bears evidence of cures in former times as many personal belongings have been left there. People do not go to pay the rounds here at present but they probably did in former times.  Rounds were paid at the grave of a certain Father Bernane who is buried here.

SFC:074:0285

Devotion to a priest’s grave is not unusual and other examples I have encountered can be seen in Stouke graveyard near Ballydehob where rounds are also paid on St St John’s Eve and include the tomb of Father John Barry and a bullaun stone. In Rosscarbery, pilgrims continue to visit the tomb of Father John Power, a contemporary of Father Barnane, though the nearby holy well is forgotten. In Ballygarvan near Carrigaline, the tomb of Father Florence McCarthy is still revered but the attractive holy well down by the river is abandoned. At another Well of the Church, Tobar a’Teampeall in Aghinagh not far from Carrigadrohid, earth from the grave of  Father John O’Callaghan was mixed with water from the nearby holy well and swallowed for internal ailments, or rubbed externally, the pilgrim having first completed a very complicated round.

Back to Maulinward, and other interesting things in the graveyard include an old altar, or mass rock, used during Penal Times and included in the rounds. Coffins were also rested here before burial.

Nearby a small cross slab can easily be overlooked but it is very special. On one side is a delicately carved linear ringed cross and on the other side what could be Ogham or more likely are grooves made by knife sharpening. Sharpening what and why is not so clear but it’s a very evocative stone, possibly dating from the 8th century. It’s not in its original position but was brought to the graveyard from the nearby townland of Scart, sometime in the 1930s.

An intriguing area and worth seeking out the little well, usually hidden and retaining its secrets.

Edit: 23rd June, St John’s Eve 2021. A visit to the well out of curiosity and a chance encounter ended in a delightful evening with Durrus Men’s Group who have recently carefully restored the well and were paying their respects on St John’s Eve.

The water remains copious and clear and delicious.

The location of this well can be found in the Gazetteer.

Many thanks to Tim for showing me the location of the grave.

Many thanks to Durrus Men’s Group for their work and information.