If you remember I had collapsed in my very comfortable airbnb only to be told that the local history expert was on his way to give me a few tips. John was delightful, someone who had lived in the Glanmire area for most of his life and who was a treasure trove of local information and knowledge. He was a little disappointed that I had already visited the two wells on his list (Lady’s Well, Ballybrack and Lady’s Well, Coolgreen) but when I mentioned one I was intending to visit the next day he perked up. We scoured the map. He didn’t know of it – Let’s go he cried. What now? Wellies on and we were off in his car, whizzing through the streets of Glanmire, information coming in left right and centre and all given with a wonderfully poetic turn of phrase and great sense of humor.
St Ruadhán’s Well
We were in search of St Ruadhán’s Well high above the town in Brooklodge, also marked as Ruown Well on the early OS maps. We spotted the site straight away marked by a lone tree in a field of pasture.
John wisely advised we should ask permission from the owner before tramping across the fields. As luck would have it the landowner appeared, curious as to what we were up too. A very Irish thing happened next – queries and connections were made and relationships established. This always happens, wherever you are and whoever you meet there will be some kind of mutual connection – a neighbour, a story, a cousin, a townland. The attention then turned to me. I, being a blow-in, am a bit more challenging but once it was known exactly where I lived, yes, there was a connection, and all was good. The landowner had no problem with us tramping over his field but warned there was not much to see. He advised which gate to use but on approaching it it was shoulder high in brambles and nettles. We decided to skid down into the ditch and attempt to scramble back up, John, gentleman that he was, holding up the electric fence.
The well lay in a sloped field with sweeping views down into Riverstown on the outskirts of Glanmire. Actually not much of the well itself remained, just a jumble of red sandstone blocks, guarded over by a spindly tree.
The well is described in the Archaeological Inventory as:
On high ground to E of Glenmore river. Infilled; whitethorn bush marks site. According to Power (1923, 23) well ‘covered overhead by a flagstone lintel five feet in length. “Rounds” are still made on St. John’s Eve, and thence to the end of June.
The impressive lintel is still there at the foot of the tree, which is now an ash rather than a whitethorn. The well is dry – dried out in the 1930s when electricity was introduced to the area and the ground disturbed, according to the landowner.
We then went over the road to look at the remains of Ballylucra church.
The C of I church was built on the site of the ancient parish church, which was in ruins by 1615. All that remains today is a hexagonal tower and spire. The church was demolished in 1923 and the stone possibly used to rebuild the nearby Butlertown House. It’s an evocative sight in the old churchyard.
As we were leaving I noticed the townland sign – Brooklodge had originally been called Cill Ruadhán, St Ruadhán’s church. John skidded to a halt so I could take a photo. It seems that the parish was also known as Kilroan, a corruption of Cill Ruadhán, but is now better known as Ballylucra.
Interesting how and when the name changed, I wish I had asked John about that. Was it when Riverstown House was built in the early 1600s, later becoming the home of the Bishop of Cork?St Rhuadán was one of the 12 Apostles of Ireland and I have encountered other wells dedicated to him at Lissavard and Courtaparteen. His feast day is the 15th April – supposedly the day you are first meant to hear the cuckoo. Reference is made to this well having a pattern on St John’s Eve, 23rd June.
On our way home, John gave me a quick tour, pointing out where the old linen mills which gave the area its wealth had once been flourished and marvelling at the literally hundreds of houses that have blossomed in the former estate of Riverstown House, site of many boyhood adventures! What a wonderful man – a font of information. I hope he’s writing it all down.
Next morning revived with a delicious breakfast (thank you Jerome and Cynthia) and with very clear instructions, I made my way to St Finbarr’s well on the outskirts of Cork city.
St Finbarr’s Well, Toberbarry
Described in the Archaeological Inventory as recently rediscovered (2009), this well now lies close to the Boland Industrial Estate. The railway goes close by and a string of houses line the other side of the road yet it all feels quite rural. At first it looked as though the well lay behind a bungalow, firmly enclosed by electric gates but then I spotted a little green way close to the houses.
This beaten path lead up and up eventually emerging into a huge field – unexpected so close to the edge of the city. I retraced my steps a little and followed the GPS just off the path. The area was certainly damp and there were stones scattered here and there.
There was a fine crop of fungus and arum lilies. A lot of rubbish too – black plastic bags and bottles but nothing that could definitely be described as a well.
St Finbarr is of course patron saint of Cork and it has been suggested that this was the place where he founded his original church. It doesn’t look that prepossessing at the moment considering its possible significance. The beautiful Neo Gothic city cathedral is dedicated to him as are numerous wells along the pilgrimage route leading to it. Perhaps the most famous site connected with St Finbarr is Gougane Barra where he is said to have founded his original monastic cell on an island in the lake. This is still the site of an annual pilgrimage on his feast day, 25th September.
Belanagaree Well
One last well was on my agenda before returning home and this was back up towards Burnfort in the townland of Rahan. It is marked on the early OS maps and named Belanagaree Well, after the stream that runs close by. There was no sign of anything though the local herd were very interested in what I was up to.
And that just about completes the North Cork wells!
Wells underwhelming but hospitality and company first rate!
Exactly 🙂
You must feel a bit sad to have ‘completed’ an area of holy wells… How long before you complete the whole Cork list?
Not very long! We might have to arrange an excursion out next week!