Some Favourite Wells of 2018

It’s been a good year for well hunting, worthy of a quick round up of some of my favourite sites. I reckon I have visited around 150 or so holy wells in the last twelve months, all unique and all in different states of preservation, activity and care.

Although most wells are to be found in County Cork, I have to confess there have been a few  excursions across the border, and even across the Irish Sea. All interesting.

I have had many adventures and met many wonderful people who have all, unfailingly, been generous and kind with their time and information. Some even fed me cake. A sincere thank you.

Here’s a short selection of some of my favourite wells of 2018r:

Most difficult well to find: Lady’s Well, Buttevant

I had tried to find  Lady’s Well near Buttevant on several previous occasions and was thwarted, but this time I was determined. The most tricky thing seemed to be to find a way across the  Awbeg River. When we eventually found the bridge it did not look reassuring.

The well was a good mile after this through difficult terrain – head high brambles, bracken, nettles and cowpats. But what a delight when we found it – neglected but powerful.

Most unexpected well: Tobairín Dónail, Rathcormac Mountain

After a long and damp day well hunting, I didn’t have much hopes for this well and nearly gave up. It was lashing. I stumbled through boggy fields and then down into a dense copse by the river. The little gate, painted BVM blue, lifted my spirits and what appeared was magical – an enclosed little world, quite separate from anything else –Tobairín Dónail.

Most jaw dropping well: St Peter & St Paul’s Well, Kilpadder,Kerry

St Peter & St Paul’s Well lies just across the border in County Kerry, and was visited after an excursion to Kenmare. It was an adventure to get to – down tiny roads, across fields and then through a rusty gate. The well itself was unprepossessing, covered by a slab of wood, but the water was still gushing underneath. What made my hair stand on end was the life size crucifixion tableau, not really what you expect to come across but spookily imposing.

Most flamboyant Well: St John ‘s Well, Tobar Álainn, Burnfort

The  Archaeological inventory said this well no longer existed and I almost believed it but thought I’d  better check. Recently restored in a rather flamboyant manner, St John’s Well still has the air of a something ancient, and long revered.

This well is guarded by a blessed trout and the pattern day is St John’s Eve, 23rd June – the remarkable stone bears evidence of a multitude of pilgrim’s crosses.

Most feisty well: Red Well, Tobar Dearg, Derryroe

This well lies on two sites, on each side of the road. North Cork wells tend to be very sensitive and move if in anyway disrespected. There are various stories as to how this well was offended but it eventually moved from the north side of the road to the south side. Rounds are still paid and include both sites. The Red Well also has a resident blessed frog and holds a cure for rheumatism.

Most atmospheric Well: St Berrihert’s Well & Kyle

Again out of the county, this time in Tipperary and a visit to the astonishing St Berrihert’s Kyle.This is an ancient and magical site comprises a kyle (burial ground),  nearly 70 cross slabs, remnants of a high cross and a cursing stone.

Journey across the boardwalk and the bog and there is also a well, huge and bubbling and strangely decorated.

Wettest exploring conditions: St John’s Well, Tobarín na bhFaithni, Mushera Mór

The weather forecast assured it would be a fine day up on Mushera Mór near Millstreet. It lied. Conditions were grim: swirling mists, steady rain and a steep climb to the top.  But a feast for the eyes emerged from the fog as we neared the summit – St John’s Well or Tobarín na bhFaithni, Little Well of the Warts!

Another powerful well and one not to be mocked, the water good for curing warts and cattle ailments. Apparently there are spectacular views from the top!

Well with the most vibes: Swallowhead Springs, Avebury, England

A trip across the water and many people may be surprised to learn that there are holy wells a plenty in England. I had a day out with my son and we visited Silbury Hill which was looking especially magnificent surrounded by its natural moat.

I had visited Silbury many times but never found the springs/well associated with many of the ancient sites in the vicinity. Swallowhead Springs did not disappoint. It was difficult to find, hard to get to with the river so full but very rewarding. A willow arch announced the site and china hares had been left as offerings at the spring mouth, Silbury Hill glimpsed across the fields.

The well that makes me smile: The Virgin’s Little Well, Tobairin Mhuire, Ballybrack

And to finish with a well I just love: The Virgin’s Little Well, Tobairin Mhuire.  It’s never where I think it is and and I’ve visited it several times not realising that I have already recorded it, if you see what I mean! I like how it’s just there – on the side of the road, amidst the farm buildings. There are no fanfares or pretensions but it is obviously still much loved and revered. Part of the community. Just what a well should be.

Wishing you all a peaceful and prosperous 2019 and good well hunting.