A quick round up of some of the more intriguing wells visited in 2019. It’s been a busy year for I officially completed my research on the holy wells in County Cork: 310 wells visited and recorded, and then ventured forth into County Kerry.
A long visit to New Zealand followed by a horrible bout of shingles (not connected I hope) curtailed explorations a little but some very enjoyable excursions into the Kingdom have been undertaken and interesting specimens discovered. Here’s a selection:
Well attracting the wildest weather: St Crohane’s Well, Tobar na Bhile, Iveragh Peninsula
We arrived at Tobar na Bhile, Well of the Blessed Tree, also known as St Crohane’s Well, in arctic conditions (it was January)
and didn’t really want to leave the car. By the time we had got out and walked up to the well the sun was shining though it remained freezing. An interesting site which once had a blessed tree, the branches of which were gathered by pilgrims for good luck and use against illness. Two other wells dedicated to St Crohane lie further up the mountain, part of the original pilgrimage originally undertaken at Lunasa and then transposed onto Crohane’s feast day, 30th July.
Well with the most unsaintly behaviour: Holy Well, Kilpatrick, West Cork
Actually there are two contenders for this prize but this well in Kilpatrick was incredibly hard to find, was much dilapidated and had a bizarrest story attached:
There is one (well) in the townland of Kilpatrick in a place called Conway’s Brake. It got its name from some saint that was living near Kilpatrick. This saint had a sister who remained out late one night and the saint said to her if this will happen again I will send my dogs after you. Next night she remained out later and when the saint went out looking for her he could not find her so he sent the dogs after her. They found her near Ahane and there they killed her. The saint changed the dogs into stones and they are seen yet at Ahane. The saint found her bones and he washed them in the well and she returned to life again. This the reason that well is called a holy well. Long ago people often made rounds. There is a tree near the well. (172/173:0321)
Kilpatrick holy well
The second contender also gets the vote for Well with the most Vibes: Rolls of butter & St Feaghna’s Well, see further down the text. Here, in a fit of pique, St Feaghna also indulged in a bit of petrification.
Most saintly behaviour: St Flainn, Toberflyn, North Kerry
Some saints lived up to their names. St Flainn was an old man and going blind when he was visited by the BVM in a vision. She praised him for his lifelong saintly behaviour and offered to cure him of his blindness as a reward. He declined her offer and asked that instead the well be given a cure for blindness and ailments of the eye so that others may benefit.The well is tucked in under the grotto.
This well also gets the vote for Well with the Best Example of Recycling.
Most bracing situation: Well of St Brendan’s Anointing, Tobar Olla Bréanainn, Valentia Island
The wind howls up from the cliffs and flies straight across Emlagh bog and there is nowhere to run. But what a wild and remote spot where St Brendan, climbing up the cliffs, came to the aid of two dying pagans. There’s till a pattern held here on St Brendan’s feast day, 16th May.
Most dramatic backdrop: St Fursey’s Well, Tobar Naomh Fursa, Iveragh Peninsula
Tucked below the imposing Cnoc na dTobar, St Fursey’s well offers a cure for sore eyes. It is an early Lunasa site and one of the twelve pilgrimage routes in Ireland. The path is marked by 14 Stations of the Cross erected in 1885. The light was fading as we arrived so, so far, I have only made it up to Station number 2.
Most flamboyant well: St Michael’s Well, Tobar Mhichil, North Kerry
I wasn’t prepared from the modest sign at the roadside for the size and scale of this well. The statue of St Michael is larger than life as he wrestles with a ferocious looking Satan.
Many cures are claimed here, including:
sore eyes, toothache and general complaint including nervousness and mental trouble …(042-44:0412)
A blessed fish lurks within the water and those who see him are ensured good luck or the cure. The well still attracts large numbers on St Michael’s feast day, 29th September.
Well with the bounciest keeper: St Manachan’s Well,Tobar Manacháin, Dingle Peninsula
An impressive site including an oratory, souterrain, cross slabs, ogham stone, holy well and a very bouncy dog! The well is very overgrown and dilapidated but still attracts a pattern on Easter Sunday.
Most impressive cure: Well of the Mad, Tobar na nGealt, Dingle Peninsula
Actually two wells and a bullan stone all reputed to hold a cure for madness. The wells were once visited by literally hundreds of people seeking relief from mental problems. A recent scientific analysis of the water found traces of lithium but whether there was enough to do any good is much debated.The wells also are surrounded by watercress, and have associations with Buile Suibhne, the tale of Mad Sweeney, who feasted on the stuff.
Most impressive miracle: St Brendan’s Well, Tobar Bréannain, Dingle Peninsula
The water in this well was said to turn into wine at Epiphany but there is a bit of a sting in the tale:
Once more a man went with his wife and child out to the well on the night of the Three KIngs to watch the water turn into wine. The next morning the people came out of their houses looking for them and all they saw were three stones near the well, two large and a small one. These stones are still visible near the well. (76/77:0422)
There seem to be two wells now, the original with the three stones and then further down another well contained within a rectangular basin.
Most adventurous to get to: St Flainn’s Well, Tobar Fláinn, Dingle Peninsula
A tiny spring well emerging from a rock right down at the seashore. First you had to get down the cliff-a blue rope was involved for abseiling down! It was even more interesting getting up. Nearby are the remains of a penitential station.The pattern continues on St Flainn’s feast day in the village of Brandon but the man himself seems forgotten.
Most challenging to get to: St Brendan’s Well, Tobar Breannain, Mt Brandon, Dingle Peninsula
This involved participating in the annual pilgrimage on Domhnach Crom Dubh, the last sunday in July also known as Garland Sunday or Reek Sunday. A six hour, pretty challenging hike up to the very top of Mt Brandon was undertaken, probably Ireland’s second highest mountain and once the site of a Lunasa assembly. The views were sublime though the well is now largely ignored unless you fancy jumping over it!
Most atmospheric and historically rich: St Buonia’s Well, Tobar Buaine, Iveragh Peninsula
Sited high up on the mountainside, a difficult one to get to but a site rich in monuments: cross slabs, oratory, holed stones, gable shrine, and a forgotten well. It almost qualified for Well with the most Vibes. The well itself is much overgrown but peeping out from the fuchsia is a delicately carved stone, executed in the late 18C and probably depicting the saint herself. This well, and three others in the vicinity, were visited in a lengthy pilgrimage on St Michael’s feast day, 29th September.
Best Pattern (and cream pie): Lady’s Well, Ballyheigue, North Kerry
A visit to the annual, extremely well attended pattern day on the 8th September at Lady’s Well Ballyheigue and the discovery that cream pies and crubeens ( pigs trotters) were essential eating! I passed on the crubeens. The water holds a cure for sore eyes and there is a resident blessed trout.
Most intriguing well not found: St Macadaw or St Erc’s Well, North Kerry
The well dedicated to St Macadaw or St Erc lay somewhere far down the cliffs towards the sea and remains unfound but the remarkable remains of an ancient church dedicated to the saint and its accompanying bulley stone were admired. The bulley stone, possibly one of two, is traditionally used to activate the holy well and is also known as a butter stone. It is a homing stone and if moved would find its way back on its own. It is said to cure just about anything.
Well with the most vibes: St Feaghna’s Well & the Rolls of Butter, South Kerry
A truly extraordinary site again full of interesting monuments including a holy well and a gigantic bullaun stone. I have never seen anything like the bullaun with its smooth stones for turning still in situ in the basins. The stone is rich in folklore (another rather ferocious petrifying saint) and many theories are offered as to what is going on. The water in the bullauns holds a cure for warts. Its accompanying well is also atmospheric in its simplicity – stones, tree water – and this holds a cure for rheumatism.
Nollaig shona daoibh, go dtí an bhliain seo chugainn.
Great titles! Wonderful to have shared some of these adventures with you and looking forward to more in 2020.
Wonderful tales,all!The bouncy dog made me smile(again!),as well as picturing you scaling the blue rope like a Gaelic mountaneer!
The Gaelic mountaineer was pretty wrecked by the time she reached the top! And a companion is always good whilst well hunting.
Listowel here we come!