Stranded in New Zealand:Te Waikoropupu Springs

Stranded indefinitely in New Zealand thanks to Covid -19, a post from the Southern  Hemisphere seems appropriate. There aren’t any holy wells as such but there are some magnificent sacred springs and luckily one is almost on my doorstep.

Te Waikoropupu

Usually known as Pupu Springs, Te Waikoropupu are the largest freshwater springs in New Zealand.

They are situated just outside Takaka in Golden Bay, at the very top of South Island. An astonishing 14000 litres of water gush out from deep underground every second. Someone has worked out that’s the equivalent of 2400 baths a minute, a useful fact. You can watch the water percolating vigorously, a mesmerising sight.

The water is exceptionally clear and pure. It has already had 10 years of filtration in the rocks before it emerges. It is also very cold, maintaining a constant temperature of 11.7C.  Apparently it is almost optically pure. I’m not entirely sure what that means but it is scientifically  impressive! Another strange phenomenon is the springs are tidal although there is no known connection to the sea, and the site is 50m above sea level.

Understandably Pupu Springs have long been regarded as a sacred site and remains so today. The local Maori consider it to be wahi tao, a place of high cultural and spiritual significance. All water is considered sacred in the Maori tradition but there are different levels of significance, Pupu falls into the highest category of wai ora, the water of life. The springs represent the life blood of Papatuanuku, the earth goddess, and the tears of Ramgini, the sky God.

The springs are approached through a marae, a communal and sacred meeting ground, richly carved.

Inside the small enclosure are information panels explaining the cultural and mythical significance of the springs.

The main feature is an enormous chunk of pounamu, or greenstone; so tactile but sadly stroking it is not to be encouraged at the moment.

A boardwalk meanders through bush of manuka and kanuka trees. Fantails flit in front of you and tui sing their odd melodious tunes overhead, camouflaged and unseen.

The first sight of the springs is breathtaking, an expanse shimmering of water in astonishing shades of blues and greens.

Dulux even have a paint colour called Pupu Springs though rather bizarrely its beige. Look down from the viewing platform and you can appreciate the depth of the water, frond-filled and mysterious.

Only ducks can take full enjoyment. Since 2007, humans are no longer permitted to swim in the water, or even drink or collect it, such is its sacred quality. This is understandable but disappointing for it looks so tempting.

The walkway wends it’s way back to the car park past Dancing Sands and its mini cataracts and through rich, exuberant bush. It seems a cliche but this place is full of enchantment, you really do leave elevated and refreshed.

Waikoropupu, Waikoropupu

Pupu ake te whenua

Pupu ake ko nga waiora

Nga puna wai o Takaka

Nga puna roimata waiura

Waikoropupu, Waikoropupu.*

Bubbling waters from the throat of the spring

Bubbling waters from the throat of the spring

Forever bubbling from the land

Forever bubbling for the health of the people and the spring waters

The spring waters of Takaka

The tears of the spirit ancestors

Waters bubbling from the throat of the spring,

Waters bubbling from the throat of the spring

As I write (May 2020) New Zealand is in Level 3 of Lockdown due to Corvid-19, and Pupu Springs can now be visited by locals (including temporary Kiwis).

• apologies for the lack of Macrons (accents) on the Maori words but my computer doesn’t have that facility