A Black Dog, a Golden Trout & St Molua

Still in Limerick, and on a glorious crisp morning we made we made a very quick stop at a well close to our hotel in Kilmallock.

Sunday’s Well, Toberreendoney, The Black Dog Well, Deebert

The well is situated at the side of the main road and is beautifully maintained. The site is enclosed by a semi-circular stone wall topped with a rosary laden stone cross. The well itself is in the centre, marked by another stone wall and surmounted by a beehive shaped stone shrine, a neat gravelled path surrounding it.

The well has many interesting stories attached:

On the road leading from Kilmallock to Mount Coote which is a half mile east of Kilmallock stands a well. In olden times it is said the the blessed virgin appeared in the well. It is also believed that a nun whose name is unknown was killed at the well and that people who passed it by walked on top of her. A man named Michael Burke left Kilmallock twenty five years ago and sailed to America. After many years he returned blind, God between us in all harm. He was carried to the Black Dog Well and he did his rounds there. After that he went down to the well and all of a sudden a golden fish came up and blessed his eyes. He came up and walked home without any guidance. He was then cured and lived many years afterwards. When he died his wife put a statue of the Blessed Virgin on the wall of the well and is still there to be seen.

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The well is subterranean, surrounded by rough stone walls with ledges for ease of access to the water which is deep and crystal clear. It holds a cure for sore eyes. A golden trout is said to live within, exceptionally lucky for those that see him.

Officially known as Sunday’s Well, it is also called the Black Dog Well. Here’s why:

The black dog was said to be seen around Kilmallock not long ago. It is a phantom dog, and it is said that he was owned by some man near Kilmallock who hunted him away. After some time a farmhand who was passing near a dike discovered the remains of what was once a black dog. Since then people have often seen a black dog which vanished after a time. Hence he got the name of The Black Dog.

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The spirit dog was seen lurking at the well, hence its alternative name. The well is considered to be dedicated to the BVM and has the distinction of her presence being reported here. The well is traditionally maintained by the travelling community and is obviously highly regarded.

Onwards in search of what Caoimhin Ó Danachair described as one of the most important wells in County Limerick: St Molua’s Well. (The Holy Wells of Limerick. 1955).

St Molua’s Well, Emlygrennane

We arrived in a farmyard and Brian was hard at work. He offered to take us in the right direction and led us through the yard to the fields behind. The first interesting sight was a tiny walled cemetery which looked ancient, something that seemed to be a speciality in this part of Limerick.

We ignored it for the moment for we could see an other enclosure adrift in the next field. First we had to negotiate the young cattle. They were no bother according to Brian and thankfully he was right. We squeezed through the kissing gate and headed out over the very boggy field – apparently this area was once known as the Red Bog.

The well lies in splendid isolation enclosed by a circular wall, erected in the early 1950s and once whitewashed, a statue of St Molua looming from within.

A metal gate opens into the enclosure. It being Covid times, we were amused to see a bottle of hand sanitiser left for the convenience of pilgrims.

The well is below ground level, surrounded by a bank of rough grassy stones. A smattering of plastic chairs hinted at pilgrimage. The whitewashed figure of St Molua perched on a plinth looked down on proceedings.

The water is copious, seeping out into the whole enclosure. Once we had skimmed off some pondweed, it was found to be exceptionally clear and cold, St Molua casting some nice reflections. A smattering of coins could be seen on the submerged ledge.

The water holds a cure for sore eyes, skin disease and ague:

St Molua’s Well is now principally resorted to for the cure of ague (malaria or another illness involving fever and shivering) and kindred complaints, and such is the belief in the efficacy if this illness that the writer has been informed of many Irish -Americans who (afflicted with ague in the land of their adoption) who have written home to their kindred in the old land to visit St Molua’s Well on their behalf, and thus, by deputy, at the saint’s shrine, ask his intercession for them. We may add, we were informed that this pilgrimage was very often efficacious.

JCHAS. Mananaan MacLir, 1897; from The Fading Year website

The water will not boil, should never be used for domestic purposes and holds a blessed trout – or possibly just a glamorous stickleback. Ó Danachair records that heavenly music was heard at the well and that a woman who took water for profane use saw a human hand in the well.

The feast day is 3/4th August and there are some complicated rounds required:

The feast day of St Molua is on the 3rd and 4th of August and in the past a large pattern was held in the area. The rounds were made at both the well and the churchyard. Three visits were usually made on different days and at each visit six rounds were made at the well and three rounds in the graveyard. Water was drunk after the completion of each round. Rags were left at the well as offerings.

The feast day is 3rd August:

The manner of ‘paying rounds’ here is peculiar. The devotion consists in first reciting a rosary of six Paters, sixty Aves, and six Glorias, while travelling over a well-beaten circular path around the holy well, after which another rosary of five Paters, sixty Aves, and five Glorias is recited while kneeling at the well’s brink. The water is then drank of and some taken away in bottles or jars for consumption in the houses of the pilgrims. It is looked on as a good omen if the pilgrims behold the fresh water stickle-back in the well – here known as ‘St Molua’s trout’– while performing their devotions. To have the ’rounds’ prove efficacious it is locally considered that they must be performed on three consecutive Saturdays, and even then, before sunrise. As the district is a rural one, far from a town, or even village, this last stipulation is not easily accomplished. From ‘St Molua’s Day’ (August 3) to the 15th, however, those restrictions are not in force, and ’rounds’ may be performed at any time on those privileged days.

JCHAS. Mananaan MacLir, 1897; from The Fading Year website

Rounds also include the nearby enclosed churchyard across the field which we then went to investigate. Some interesting stones and a rag tree were revealed:

In the next field is Emelygrinan grave-yard there is a stone about three feet in height there and the people who pay rounds get a stone and make the sign of the cross three times on this stone if they want to get a cure. When they get their request they tie a rag on a tree in the grave-yard therefore the tree has a lot of rags tied on it. 

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A round topped stone bearing a cross, and a flat topped stone looking very much like sundial are also included in devotions.

The rag tree is also flourishing; note the Limerick colours.

The well is not in its original position but moved after being disrespected:

At Martinstown cross there is a stone on the roadside with the print of a woman’s hand and knee on it. This remained after the removal of Maloe well. A soldiers wife washed her baby in it and it moved to its present place in the middle of a field.

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Sadly there was no sign of the stone today. I shall finish with this heartfelt poem:

I often drank water out of St Maloe’s well,

In it’s clear water there lurks a bright spell.
The afflicted go there to find ease from there woe.

And I’ll think of old Ireland where ever I’ll go.

I will think of old Ireland the home of the brave
I will think of old Ireland across the blue wave
This the home where the green shamrocks grow.
And I will think of old Ireland where ever I go.

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The location of the wells can be found in the Gazetteer.

Many thanks to Brian for directing us to the well.