St Lachteen’s Well, Knocknagranshy

Ever since I came across this beautiful drawing by Dáithí Ó Ceanntabhail in the the Main Manuscript of the Folklore Collection, I have wanted to visit, St Lachteen’s Well in Knocknagranshee, County Limerick. Sketched in 1934 there is wonderful attention to detail. The chunky stone-built beehive wellhouse in nicely observed along with the accurate description of the plaque above the entrance which reads:

This stone was erected by James Keating* in ye year of Our Lord 1791 that lived in Grange Hill. Pray for him..

Next to the well is shown an imposing old ash trees which Dáithí observed:

… looked at from certain angles and distances, this ash tree, when in full foliage, has a most extraordinary resemblance to an outline map of Ireland.

MM: 0322:0466

Back in County Limerick for a few days, it seemed the ideal opportunity to seek out the well. En route we were distracted by Mainster Abbey with its enormous and impressive remains adrift in a field.

St Lachteen’s Well, Tobar Lachteen, Toberlaghteen

Persevering, the GPS directed us to another field, smaller and muddier. It started to rain and my companions headed back to the car but I continued, crossing several boggy fields becoming increasingly frustrated. I was looking for something like this.

However, hedges and other trees had sprung up since that photo was taken probably sometime in the 1950s. Finally I spotted a very wet area and peering through the undergrowth could see a jumble of stones and more dampness in the next field. Later I discovered that this was probably the original site of the well for it had been disrespected at some point by a woman washing clothes in it, and had promptly moved across the field boundary to its new spot.

Retracing my steps, sinking into the soggy ground and trying not to get my camera too wet, I saw this encouraging sight. It looked familiar.

Getting closer, it was clear that the magnificent ash still dominated the area, and diving into the undergrowth, its base revealed the small wellhouse.

It was looking dishevelled and forgotten, a little green cone, swamped by ivy and surrounded by an exuberant spring. The area surrounding it was a complex jumble of mossy stones and slippery watercress.

The plaque above the entrance, so clearly depicted in the drawing, was indistinguishable and the skinny entrance to the well almost blocked with stones and ivy.

What a contrast to the image below where the neat stone work can clearly be seen along with the large rectangular plaque above the entrance to the well.

The water can be seen seeping out from the well and collecting in a large pool in front of the wellhouse, still identifiable today by a jumble of stonework. The Irish Tourist Association Survey for County Limerick (ITA) reveals some interesting observations:

In the lands of Edward Lane … is a well with a slight sulphur content. Beside it is a clear spring well. Over the former is a cone shaped erection with a small opening at the foot.

Were there originally two wells? There was no sulphur smell today but ironically the wellhouse was dry though there was plenty of water elsewhere. Once the well had been resorted to for the cure for sore eyes.

The old ash tree remained impressive though many of it branches looked broken – no longer identifiable as the shape of Ireland,

What a contrast to the next photo taken by Caoimhin Ó Danachair, who recorded the well in 1955. Here its full regal size can be seen, the well nestling at its roots with the little pool in front of it surrounded by a rough stone wall.

Rounds were originally paid on St Lachteen’s Day, 19th March, but the pattern seems to have died out by the 1930s. I have come across St Lachteen before as he has seven wells dedicated to him in County Cork including this one at Grenagh which is still revered.

The saint is probably best well known in connection with the magnificent arm reliquary – the Lámh Lachtáin.

The extraordinary reliquary dates from around 1120AD and was constructed to house a relic of the saint, probably an arm or finger bones. It is a right forearm constructed in three separate parts. The hollow wooden core is covered by eight bronze plates and the hand is cast in bronze and is hollow, the fingernails silver. A circular base, now separate from the arm, once housed a huge rock crystal through which pilgrims could view the relics. The complexity of the decoration, rich in interlacing zoomorphic patterns, is astounding, the details enhanced by gold filigree. It is well worn and may have been used in a similar way to the statue of St Gobnait, and was displayed on the saint’s feast day, pilgrims coming into direct contact with the reliquary. Originally this marvellous artefact was looked after by its hereditary keepers, the Healy family and was associated with Donoughmore church. It was acquired by an art collector in 1750 and ended up in London until Lord Powerscourt bought it in 1884 and returned it to Ireland. Today it is on display in the National Museum in Dublin.

• How nice to be contacted by the x4 granddaughter of James Keating, now living in Queensland, Australia!

The location of this well can be found in the Gazetteer.

Many thanks to Finola Finlay for permission to use her photographs of St Lachteen’s reliquary.