One of the holy wells I was keen to visit on my Limerick trip is dedicated to Mary Magdalen, the only one I have come across with this dedication. Two photos from the National Folklore Photographic Collection show how impressive it had looked in the 1950s, sporting a stone cupola and containing a life-size statue of the patron saint. Ó Danachair described the well as being:
In a grove of whitethorn bushes. A masonry cupola over the well has a niche for a life-size statue of the saint. Rounds still made, especially on the feast day (22nd July). Flowers and candles are left at the well.
Caoimhin Ó Danachair, The Holy Wells of Limerick, 1955
It has an interesting origin story:
Some men were haymaking on the side of the hill, many, many years ago and when they went to their dinner they stuck the hay forks, which were really only branches of trees with forked ends, into the ground. When they came back, one man discovered that his hay fork had sprouted into a fine young ash tree, at the foot of which a crystal clear well sparkled in the sunlight. The stump of the ash tree still stands guard over the well, its rugged bark studded with medals and other mementoes nailed to it by pilgrims of bygone years.
D, Stewart: The History of Castletroy & the Surrounding Area, 1955
The Limerick Diocesan Heritage group however had been unable to positively locate the well in 2001 and noted:
The well is now rarely visited and has become neglected. The statue of St Mary Magdalene is now overgrown by weeds.
Limerick Diocese Heritage Organisation, Monaleen Parish
Did anything remain? By the time I got to Monaleen parish on the outskirts of Limerick City, it was late Sunday afternoon, the traffic was horrendous and it was hard to negotiate the one way system. However, once off the main road, my GPS took me to a quiet corner of a housing estate and I set off to explore. There was no signage, nothing to indicate that there was anything interesting nearby but but as I clambered over a steep bank next to a roundabout, I instantly knew I was in the right place.
A thin, slightly trodden path lead into a dense little copse.
Although I could hear the traffic not far off away, it felt like entering a very private and very different world. The first glimpse of the well told me this was something special.
There she was. An attractive arched canopy, almost like a little boat, made of chunky stone stood over the well containing a statue, not of Mary Magdalen but the BVM.
Offerings lay on the ledge by her feet, candles, rosaries, flowers and lamps but there was no sign of the stump of the old ash tree.
The rectangular well lay below ground approached by a short flight of steps. The water was very cold and clear and is said to hold a cure for stomach ailments and sore eyes. Occasionally it was known to dry up:
It is said that during the week of the famous Newcastle Races the well ran dry as a protest against the evil-doings at the Races. When Race Week was over, someone from Kilbane House always sprinkled holy water on the dried up bed of the well and the water would once more run fresh and clear.
D, Stewart: The History of Castletroy & the Surrounding Areas, 1955
The feast day is the 22nd July, once attracting many pilgrims and today it still looks cherished. Such a peaceful spot. A robin sang extravagantly and it felt a million miles from a city centre. The church in Monaleen is also dedicated to Mary Magdalen, one of Jesus followers and the first person he appeared to upon his resurrection.
On my way home I popped into Trinity Well, Newmarket, North Cork. I last visited in 2016 and was enchanted by its wild exuberance. Water was everywhere and the whole site full of plastic flowers and offerings.
Today it looked very different and has been considerably tidied up but still retains its charm and is obviously much revered.
The area is no longer sodden and must somehow have been drained. The well itself is now accessible and neatly housed. The well is unusual in that is meant to be within a fulacht fiadh, a Bronze Age receptacle for heating water.
The offerings have diversified and are more ordered but still abundant.
The area around the well has been cleared and the path used for rounding is clearly marked.
The location of these well cans be found in the Gazetteer.
Ian Taylor says
Always interesting to see what you can find when you stop off at a busy roundabout. We have a couple of wells for St Mary Magdalen, one of which I often cite as one of my favourites. However, yours, even in its ‘neglected’ state looks a really nice find, and in much better condition than mine. However, mine too is at the foot of a large tree & I realise now that I have never stopped to find out what kind it is, will have to go back for a look. Fascinating post and great pictures as ever.
Nancy Fitzgerald says
I loved seeing the well dedicated to St Mary Magdalene–thanks, Amanda, for the great pictures. Curious: Are there any images there of Mary Magdalene? From what I could tell as I looked at the photos, there obly seemed to be statues of the BVM.
Amanda Clarke says
Thanks Nancy, I was pleased to find the mono images. It’s changed a lot!
Amanda Clarke says
And no, nothing directly referring to Mary Magdalen as far as I could see.
Finola Finlay says
Hard to believe the change in the Trinity well. I think I preferred it the old way.
Amanda Clarke says
I was amazed! I think I might agree with you but at least now you can get to the well, it was almost too waterlogged before.
Betty Lou Chaika says
It’s wonderful to see the changes in well sites on your repeat visits. Thank you.
Amanda Clarke says
Essential to keep going back for they do change and evolve, thanks Betty Lou.
Jane O`Halloran says
Absolutely fascinating. Thank you.
Amanda Clarke says
Thanks for visiting Jane
cilshafe2080 says
Excellent reports and images. Living history Will be fascinating to see how the interest in wells stimulated by your research and in ‘old ways’ generally, takes them forward in new ways.
Amanda Clarke says
There certainly seems to be a revival of interest in holy wells in Ireland at the moment. always interesting to see how they evolve with the times.
Andrea Webber says
Does anyone know where the original statue of Mary Magdalene is located now ?
Amanda Clarke says
That’s a good question – I’m in Limerick next week and will make inquiries.