Found, Forgotten, Revisited: a November round up

A blog highlighting some recently visited wells around County Cork and County Kerry, including some old friends and some new discoveries.

It is now reasonable to assume that many holy wells date from before the Christian era and can therefore be hundreds of years old. The first well described may be unusual in that it seems to be a remarkably new well, at around 25 years old.

Grotto & Holy Well, Derrylahan, West Cork

At the recent opening of Well, Well, Well? in the Working Artist Studios, Ballydehob I got talking to Margaret who mentioned a grotto and holy well near her home in Dunmanway, West Cork. My ears pricked up for this didn’t sound familiar. She jotted down her name and the name of the townland, Derrylahan, and a few days later we went exploring. A very scenic drive led us up and down small unfamiliar roads into the hills behind Dunmanway. The day was misty and murky but we eventually landed up on the side of Mount Gunnery, seemingly miles from anywhere. The views were impressive.

We were looking for the grotto which is marked on the OS map but as we came up towards Mount Gunnery, the first sighting was of what could only be a wellhouse, attractively painted in BVM blue and white. We leapt out to investigate. I was astounded that I hadn’t come across this substantial well before.

The well is subterranean, surmounted by a curved wellhouse and an elaborate and extensive whitewashed wall, complete with pillars and attractive details marked out in blue.

The water is copious, very cold and clearish, the interior of the wellhouse painted a vibrant blue.

About 70 metres away is the imposing grotto, beautifully maintained.

A plaque informs that it was erected by Seán Kelleher in 1988, a Marian Year, and was blessed on the 15th August in the same year by Canon D McCarthy.

The Schools’ Folklore Collection and Irish Tourist Association Survey have nothing to say about these two monuments so, once home, I contacted Margaret who had originally mentioned them. She confirmed that the grotto had been built by local man, Seán Kelleher, for his sister who was suffering from glaucoma. This kind act seems to have worked for his sister never lost her sight. Seán tended the grotto, planted bushes and shrubs and it slowly started to become a focus for healing. At some point a travelling family brought their sick child here and, after the child was cured, placed a large rosary around the BVM’s praying hands – it’s still here. Margaret described how the grotto was frequently visited during Covid and remained a place of solace throughout Lockdown. She also noted that during Storm Ophelia many trees were felled in this area but miraculously none fell on the grotto.

A few years after building the grotto Seán invited a diviner onto the land who identified what has since become the holy well. This was officially blessed by the parish priest in 2000. Talking to Margaret, what’s fascinating is that it’s the grotto that receives the interest and that seems to hold the cure rather than the holy well. Although the well is beautifully kept by one of Sean’s nieces it doesn’t seem to receive as many visitors as the grotto. A new walking route has just opened starting opposite the grotto and Margaret hopes more people might stop and take note of the well. Mass is still celebrated at the grotto on 15th August, the Assumption, but it would be nice to also include the well in this celebration.

St Patrick’s Well, Tobar Padraigh, near Castletown Kinneigh, West Cork

Whilst in this area we paid a revisit to St Patrick’s Well near Castletown Kinneigh, just to see how it was faring. The colourful little homestead was a sign that we were going in the right direction.

The well proved even more difficult to get to than last time and my companions left me to it as I followed the faintest of tracks through wet bracken and briars, finally following the path of a small river. The first glimpse of the well is tantalising, a large hollow in a large rock on the other side of the stream, today gushing impressively.

A fallen branches provides something to cling on to as you carefully place your feet on slippery stepping stones! It’s worth it though for the well is full of water, cold and clear apart from a layer of weed, gently removed. Dedicated to St Patrick, the curved indent above the basin is said to have been caused by the saint’s arm as he knelt in prayer.

St Eiltín’s Well, Toberscattery, Killelton well, North Kerry

Other wells have been forgotten about but lie quietly waiting to be rediscovered. I recently stayed with a friend and colleague for a few days in North Kerry, close to the highly scenic Carrigafoyle Castle, an area rich in archaeological remains.

We were delighted to find that, according to the Archaeological Survey for North Kerry, our Airbnb had a holy well on the site, one not yet visited. The owner knew of the well and promised to help us find it. In the end her sister and her husband, Brenda and Roland, kindly came to help out, armed with pikes and scythes! The well is clearly marked on the historic OS maps and seems to lie on the edge of the long boreen which leads towards the house. Brenda confessed that she had not been to the well for over 30 years but could remember exactly where it was – she thought! She was hopeful that the large tree marked the spot. The surrounding area looked daunting and impenetrable, dense with brambles and gorse.

However, Roland and Brenda were prepared and set to!

Brenda could clearly remember that the well was originally covered by a large flat slab to stop the children and cattle from falling in it, so we were delighted when Roland thought he had hit something solid.

Some careful clearing and the well was revealed. Though minus its covering slab, it proved to be well constructed out of stone with a hefty lintel.

It was very deep and there was still plenty of water in the bottom.

Brenda was delighted to have found the well and having been brought up here had many fond memories of being sent down here with her siblings to to collect water for the cattle. She recalled that water was always cold and abundant and that the children perched on a slab before letting the bucket down into the well. The family never considered it to be holy which is borne out by the description in the Archaeological Survey for North Kerry:

Marked on the 1841-42 and 1914 OS maps as ‘Toberscattery (site of)’. According to the OSNB, it should read ‘Tobar Eiltín’ – well of Eiltín. Situation and Description: This well is situated in the grounds of Killelton House. It is about 1m in diameter and is covered by flagstones.  Rounds/Legends/Offerings: The landowner states that he never knew it as a holy well. It is now used by cattle.

Toberscattery is an interesting alternative name. Scattery Island, within sight from nearby Carrig Island, is associated with St Senan and not far away is a monument classified as a pilgrim’s path described in the Schools’ Folklore Collection:

This is a segment of a pilgrim’s path and is named ‘St Senans Road’ in old English lettering on the 1st and 2nd editions of the OS 6-inch maps. It extends for c. 330m in a SW-NE direction into a point on the west side of Ballylongford Bay. It has now been submerged by water from the Shannon Estuary. Cross-reference with KE002-008005-. Folklore collected in 1938 from Ballylongford School recorded the following tradition about this road; ‘In the time that St Seanan lived in Scattery Island, he ordered that a road should be made all the way from where he was which was Scattery Island to Carrig Island which was about six miles. The road was started in Carrig Island but it is not known whether it was then when the saint ordered it or later on it was started. The road goes out about one mile and a half and can be seen to the present day. The old people say that the reason why it was not finished was that one morning when the men were at work a red haired woman passed them and said nothing. At that the work was stopped because they thought it would not be right to finish it. It can be seen every day when the tide goes out, and it is called ‘St Seanan’s Road’. (SFC:098:0403)

The nearby holy well in Asdee may also be connected with St Senan.

St Eiltín is patron saint of Kinsale, described in my last blog, but he also seems to have been active in this part of North Kerry. Killelton is named after him and includes this well, and another holy well (Toberelton, Tobar Eiltín) is said be in the grounds of Killeton House, private property and as yet unvisited. The nearby village of Lisselton also refers to him.

Holy Well, Chapel Street, Ballydehob, West Cork

The next well I had always assumed to be a domestic well but it seems it has the full holy credentials after all.

Talking to Mary and Connie during the Well, Well, Well? exhibition in Ballydehob, the discussion came around to a local well in Chapel Lane. In fact there are two wells located on the side of the road, both I had assumed were domestic. Mary and Connie referred to one well as being a holy well and recalled people visiting it including a woman who came every day to offer prayers to the well. They believed it held a cure and and described how it had offered relief to a man with a bad knee after he’d petitioned it.

We revisited the wells. The first is tucked into the bank, very overgrown and seems to be a natural hollow in rock. It looked very promising.

The second well lies closer to the village almost opposite St Brigid’s Church, easy to overlook though the bollard must surely be a sign.

We talked to a man tending his garden next door (apologies that I didn’t take your name) who confirmed that this was the holy well and that he looked after it when he had time. He mentioned that people still visited but had little other information. We went back to have another look and did a little careful tidying up.

The well is stone-lined, subterranean and and covered by a large flat lintel. The water is clear and cold. I’d love to hear any more information about this well.

Bachall Íosa, Well of Jesus Staff, Farthingville, North Cork

This well was first visited in 2018 but in 2023 I was alerted to the fact that I had wrongly identified the site. Recently I was able to revisit and to correct my assessment. I hadn’t been that far off but an unexpected treasure lay in wait!

Originally I had come across a significant looking tree with a smattering of stones and thought I had found the site of the Bachall Íosa, Well of the Staff of Jesus.

Actually I hadn’t and the well lay hidden in a small copse just a hundred metres away.

The little gate is of course a clue and should have been spotted. Go through the gate and a series of steps lead down to the well – a curved wellhouse with a niche containing a statue of the Sacred Heart.

The water is abundant and very cold and is good for sore eyes and stomach ailments. The cup suggests someone still thinks its good to drink.

While we were investigating the well, Declan arrived to see what we were up to. He turned out to be the son of the landowner and was so helpful and gave us a little more useful information. Apparently by the late 1980s the site was seriously overgrown and his father had decided to clear and landscape the area. He built the wellhouse, constructed the steps and put in the gate.

He also planted the area with protective trees, mostly conifers though three hawthorns are now flourishing directly above the well. The well was then blessed by the parish priest. The well may not get many visitors todays but it still acknowledged and maintained by the Finn family. I was thrilled to finally find it.

St Fanahan’s Well, Tobar Naomh Fionnchú, Michelstown, North Cork

And finally a visit to the pattern day at St Fanahan’s Well in Mitchelstown, North Cork. After wild weather and flooding, the 24th November, the Eve of the Saint’s Day, was cold and crisp and a dedicated group gathered to say the Rosary at the well. A constant footfall of pilgrims wend their way down the magnificent avenue which was especially illuminated for the novena.

I have been to the well before but not the pattern and was charmed by the quiet, welcoming and respectful ritual.

The well was looking most attractive full of deep, cold water. It was interesting to see how people dipped their rosaries in the water and then placed them on their faces rather than drink the water. I was offered a quick spray and I also met a woman who reported that she had seen the eel, and a small fish – St Fanahan himself maybe, and the BVM.

There was great pride in the continuation of this tradition. I’m so glad I went.

The location of these wells can be found in the Gazetteer.

With thanks to Margaret Link for information about the holy well in Derrylahan; to Brenda, Roland and Angela for information about St Eiltin’s Well; to Mary and Con Ó Sullivan for information about the Ballydehob Well and to Declan Finn for information about Bachal Íosa.