It’a always interesting to look back on a year and see where I’ve been and what I’ve done. It didn’t feel as though I’d visited many holy wells this year as much of my time had been taken up with the project Well, Well, Well?, working with artist Marie Brett. This immersive and creative project featured three of my very favourite wells and resulted in a short arthouse film, some fine art prints and a chapbook. Here’s some of the action at St Michael’s Well, Lixnaw, Tobar na Molt, Ardfert, both in Kerry and Lady’s Well near Liscaroll, North Cork.
We started the year by visiting a truly extraordinary site in County Kerry – Cloon West. Although we didn’t find the associated holy well, we did find the ritual complex comprising leacht, bullauns and richly decorated pillar stones, captured here in a suitably mysterious light.
This trip has a particular poignancy as it was the last proper exploration with our dear friend Robert, before his untimely death in March. One half of erudite and expansive Roaringwater Journal along with his wife Finola, it was a wonderful trip, with some fascinating sites visited in the company of two very special friends.
2024 marked the first public holiday for St Brigid’s Day which had to be celebrated in a suitable fashion, Cork and Kerry having many wells dedicated to our Matron Saint. The example below is St Brigid’s Well, Mountbridget near Buttevant, County Cork.
Hot on the heels of St Brigid’s day is St Gobnait’s feast day on the 11th February. This year a whole weekend of celebrations took place in Ballyvourney, West Cork, including the unveiling of a replica of the 13th century wooden statue of the saint. The original is in the middle, a facsimile on the right and the newly commissioned statue on the left.
Many pattern days were visited this year starting of with an invitation to St Berrihert’s Well in Tullylease, North Cork on 18th February. Here are my companions inspecting the Cloch na hEilte, a large bullaun which is part of the round.
On to Glenbeigh in Kerry for St Finian’s Pattern Day on Easter Monday complete with a long and well attended walk to the holy well, accompanied by a piper – and the odd dog.
May saw two more pattern days, the first at Tobar na Molt, Ardfert where Mass was held on the evening of the 16th May, St Brendan’s Day – St Brendan having been baptised here.
On the last Friday in May, it was the turn of Tubrid Well, Millstreet, North Cork, many pilgrims visiting to attend Mass and take the water.
St John’s Eve and a gathering of regular and new pilgrims took place in Stouke graveyard near Ballydehob to pay the rounds which included a tiny holy well in a bullaun stone.
A few familiar faces from above as my book club insisted on visiting a holy well for our annual summer gathering! We met at the Blessed Well, Gouladoo on the Sheep’s Head in West Cork and were inspired to do a spot of writing as well.
July saw a trip to Ardfield in West Cork on the occasion of St James’ feast day, 25th July. A warm and welcoming group gathered for Mass with much appreciated tea and biscuits being provided afterwards.
September 8th, the Feast of the Nativity of the BVM, draws huge crowds to Lady’s Well, Ballyheigue in North Kerry where celebrations continue for three days. It was good to see the holy well remains the focus of attention.
Finally a trip to Mitchelstown in North Cork for St Fanahan’s feast day on the 24th November. The day was cold and crisp as the rosary was recited, a steady stream of pilgrims walking down the long avenue to the well.
In April, TG4 released a six part series Ag Triall ar an Tobar, fronted by the wonderful Manchán Magan. I had the privilege of taking him to two wells in East Cork and featured in episode 6! (Filming took place in February 2023)
Early June is time for my annual meet up with my friend Professor Eric Johnson from Kurtztown University, Pennsylvania and his group of enthusiastic students. Holy wells are always part of their extensive and exciting agenda when they visit Ireland for a month.
Another holy well trip saw scenes reminiscent of the Young Offenders as a group of us, organised by Creative Bandon and kindly ferried around by a community garda, explored some of the many wells in West Cork.
Another highlight was Culture Night celebrated at Tubrid Well, Millstreet in September. This was part of the Well, Well, Well? project and Marie and I were delighted when over 70 people joined us to float votive offerings on the well in remembrance of loved ones. What a special night it turned out to be.
A trip to see my son in Bristol in April and it would have been rude not to visit as many wells as possible whilst there! St Edith’s right in the city centre was looking a bit forlorn, literally fenced in.
But we both loved the large, impressive and very cold well dedicated to St Anthony in the middle of the Forest of Dean.
I was back to the UK in July for a conference on Sacred Waters in Buxton, Derbyshire, hosted by friend, colleague and leading expert on holy wells, Dr Celeste Ray from Sewanee University. Tennessee. An excellent and stimulating conference, it also coincided with the annual Peak District ritual of well dressing. Astonishing work by the petallers.
I was very fortunate to spend a couple of days with Celeste later on in the year when we explored several wells in North Kerry. This one, dedicated to St Eiltín, had not seen the light of day for many years!
I made several trips to County Limerick swotting up for a talk later given to Thomond Historical Society and encountered my first well dedicated to Mary Magdalen, followed in the many footsteps of St Patrick and was also introduced to St Munchin!
St Patrick also left some beefy kneeprints in the middle of road in Cahir, County Tipperary!
Whilst in Tipperary we also visited a wonderful trio of wells in the Glen of Aherlow – St Sedna and its heavy rag tree was a new discovery but St Berrihert’s Kyle and St Peacaun’s Well are old favourites.
There’s always time to squeeze in one more well and Tobar Íosa near Cahir, also in Tipperary, was an unexpected pleasure, especially being serenaded by folksinger Eddie Costello who was just having a quiet moment there with his banjo.
Old friends were revisited, mis-identifications corrected and new wells discovered: Sunday’s Well, Banteer, North Cork; Bachall Íosa, Fathingville North Cork and a possible Lady’s Well near Dunmanway.
And it’s always good to meet new enthusiastic friends along the way. It was a delight to meet Charlotte who is doing some amazing work uncovering wells in the Kinsale area.
The year ended on a real high with us becoming Irish citizens at a truly wonderful and welcoming ceremony in Killarney.
On reflection it seems to have been a very varied and busy year in the field! I’m off to New Zealand for a few weeks at the end of January to meet up with my other son and granddaughter so well hunting will commence in March.
Athbhliain faoi mhaise daoibh!
Amazing what you’ve done this year and so glad to have been a part of it all, along with Robert for the early bits. He’s just sent me a message to let you know there are lots of holy wells where he is now. Unfortunately, he didn’t say where that was.
The veil is sometimes very thin. I know he travels with us.
You have been very busy in 2024! Keep up the good work. You are raising awareness about these precious places. Enjoy your trip to New Zealand. Happy New Year to you and your family.
Thanks so much for the kind comment Terri – I was busier than I thought!