Putting things off ’til later

Continuing from the last blog, still in the Gaeltacht and back to Baile Bhúirne (Ballyvourney). I had almost visited the next three wells once before, on the Trail of St Lachteen. They all looked in remote and challenging locations, and the descriptions for each were rather curt and unexciting. I had resolved to put them off until later!  Well later has now arrived!

The first well on the agenda did have something in its favour though, for it has one of my favourite names: Tobar Seanganach, Well of the Place Abounding in Ants.

Well of the Place Abounding in Ants, Tobar Seanganach , Tobernasangyny

Well of the Place Abounding in Ants lies just north east of Baile Mhic Íre (Ballymakeera), which is in fact part of Ballyvourney. Two houses lay in the vicinity and beyond the farthest I could see a track leading up into the hills which looked hopeful. I knocked on the door and a young man answered. I explained and he looked doubtful but went off to phone his uncle who owned the land. He came back shortly with the thumbs up, and said I was to work away but to mind the cattle and the electric fences. I followed the steep muddy track up, rich pasture on one side and little copses on the other.

An intriguing looking feature in the field on the right made me stop – a cement slab and some folded corrugated iron. This fitted the description in the Archaeological Inventory:

In rough grazing. Irregular depression covered with metal sheeting. Well is dry and known locally as ‘wart well’. According to O’Donoghue (1986, 232),’Tober Seanganach (well of the place abounding in ants)’.

This didn’t tie in with the GPs and so I continued. (I later discovered that this was a well but used only for domestic purposes). The GPS led me off into the trees and up steep hummocks. As I was rooting around the briars I heard a voice, someone on their phone. It was the uncle sent to find me and he had come prepared – with a billhook! Bertie was astonished that anyone knew about the well and reckoned it had had no visitors for many years. He could remember visiting it as a young lad and his father would tell him to go before school and wash his hands three times in the water for it is a wart well. He assured me he had never had any warts. He hadn’t been for many years but thought he could remember where it was – and off we went at a cracking pace up and down rocks, through bog and mud, finally arriving at a hawthorn tree.

 

Bertie reckoned this was the place and hacked away but there but no sign of any well. From his description it sounded as though we were looking for a bullaun for he remembered scooping the water out of a basin-shape in the rock.

The GPS led us to a slightly different spot and although it also looked promising revealed nothing that could be positively identified as a well. And no sign of any abounding ants either – just a lot of irritating midges.

Bertie promised to return at some time and see if he could find the definite spot. What a fantastic view from up here though.

A cashel (stone-banked ringfort) lay close by in the opposite field, its banks still substantial (CO058-048). We trudged back through some impressive mud on our way back down to the farm, actually more like a small river.

Well of the Pains, Tobar na bPian, Tobernabien

On to another well I had put off on same day as the St Lachteen adventure, and another that looked exceptionally hard to find. Well of the Pains was located near Kilnamartyra and from the description it sounded as though there was at least something to see:

 In pasture, c. 60m to S of burial ground (CO070-066—-). Now out of use and in disrepair. Present position of stones indicates that well was originally rectangular (2.2m x 1.5m), lined on three sides with upright orthostats and covered with lintels. Locally known as useful for “bone cures”. According to O’Donoghue (1986, 235), ‘Tobar na bPian (well of the pains)’.

In fact, although it required a fair bit of walking down a long track, through a wood and then into an open field, I found it straight away – a fox guarding it which scampered off as I approached.

The Well of Pains lay in the middle of rough pasture, abandoned and forgotten but still clearly discernible.

A large clump of unruly brambles and fine tufts of bog grass announced its presence and the slabs of stone looked unusual in the wet lush field.

 

As the Inventory describes, it was originally three sided and covered with large flat slabs but it had now collapsed in on itself, looking a bit like a mini wedge tomb.

I was delighted to find broken cups tucked in among the moss, evidence that it had been revered until fairly recently. The water was still fresh within and was said to contain a cure for sore bones.

A quiet and beautiful location, now I had to find my way back through those mysterious woods.

Sunday’s Well, Tobar Ri an Domhnaigh 

At the end of a long day, I nearly didn’t call in here for the description was uninspiring, and yes, it was another well I had put off till later:

At foot of slope, in heavy overgrowth. No visible surface trace. According to O’Donoghue (1986, 245), ‘Tober Ri an Domhnaigh (Well of the King of Sunday) at which “rounds” were performed’.

According to the map it was way off the road near forestry. I parked the car, surveyed the scene and although the countryside looked beautiful I could see no way of getting where I wanted to. Then I spotted some steps which seemed to be going in the right direction. These led to substantial farm track. I ventured down then followed the GPS off across the fields.

What a beautiful spot: forested, lush green pasture and huge rocky outcrops, a smattering of bluebells just appearing amongst the primroses.

 

In the field I noticed a standing stone, it seemed to be just where the well should be. But in shady woodland just beyond I could see a small bench, an unlikely spot for one unless there was something of significance within.

There was! The well must have been restored since the Sites and Monuments team visited in 1986 for it was active and still revered.

The well house was built into the bank, constructed out of now mossy and slightly ramshackle chunky stones. The water was contained in a rectangular basin, and was fresh and clear, seeping out over a flat stone and trickling down into the nearby river.

Offerings were pressed into the moss, mainly statues but there also seemed to be the remains of what looked like a pair of scales.

A clean stack of cups were neatly arranged should pilgrims require them.

The well is recorded as being a Sunday’s Well, Tobar Ri an Domhnaigh, but it now seems to be dedicated to St Finbarr as the carved slab attested.

Tradition has it that St Finbarr came from nearby Inchigeelagh and later went on to live as hermit at Gougane Barra where there is still an annual pattern day dedicated to him. He is the patron saint of Cork and his feast day is 25th September.

Dear St Finbarr, our holy patron

look down on Cork, with kindly glance,

we claim you aid and intercession

here, where your presence hallowed once,

help us in our many problems

that harass us in modern day,

help us to imitate your virtues

help us to tread the righteous way;

keep us true and faithful

constant as the lovely Lee

that flows so brightly on forever,

keep us steadfast in our earnest plea.

Dear St Finbarr we humbly pray you

guard especially our Youth

there is danger all about them

let not evil ways take their root.

Help us always dear St Finbarr

patron of our dearest Cork

For so many blessings let us be grateful and trust in God when days are dark.

 

A remarkable site with a warm yet secretive atmosphere. I’m so glad I stopped. In fact all three wells were unexpectedly rewarding. You never can tell just by looking at the map or by putting things off till later!

Special thanks to Bertie for his kind assistance.

The location of these wells can be found in the Gazetteer.