Cream Pies & Crubeens: Pattern Day in Ballyheigue

The most important day in a holy well’s spiritual and social calendar was the pattern day – the day when the patron of the well was celebrated. Up until the early 1800s patterns days were common at most wells and were frequently boisterous affairs attended by literally hundreds of people. (See Pilgrimage, Partying & Paying the Rounds for more information).

Many became so rowdy that they were eventually condemned by the church for their debauchery and were banned, pilgrims risking excommunication. Some patterns however managed to continue through the changing years and are still flourishing. One such example is in Ballyheigue in North Kerry where a much cherished pattern is still held at the Lady’s Well on the 8th September, Our Lady’s birthday. This Is how the Tralee Chronicle reported it in 1871:

The Pattern Day comes but once a year, and with it come the elite and rabble of the country families around . . . The Ballybunion piper and other disciples of Orpheus did not forget us this year, therefore the lovers of the ‘light fantastic’ danced their fill. We had actors and gamblers in almost endless variety and unlimited numbers. (Irish Times, September 2nd 2013)

This needed to be investigated and recorded. I hoped the disciples of Orpheus might still be in attendance.

Thrasher Day

We travelled up on the eve of the pattern and stayed at the extremely comfortable Farmhouse Boutique B&B. Our host, Richard, was an invaluable and charming source of information and made our stay extra special. We had only just arrived when he presented us with tea and cream pies.

The cream pies are a particular delicacy made especially for the pattern consisting of flaky pastry with a cream centre – a sort of North Kerry millefeuille! We got stuck in! The pattern eve is also known as the Thrasher with its references to the harvest safely gathered in. It was also a day when members from the travelling community traditionally visited the well and once the sight of their roll top caravans was common. We decided to take a quick trip down to the well to see what was going on.

It was a beautiful evening and there was a steady flow of pilgrims paying the rounds, sitting in  quiet meditation or taking the water. It felt calm and peaceful yet with a sense of anticipation as final touches were being made: the sound system tweaked, signs put up in the parking areas and flags hoisted.

The focus of the site is of course the well. It was originally a simple spring and by the early 1930s had become neglected. The arrival of a new parish priest brought changes:

There is a very nice grotto built near the well. There was nothing there two years ago only the well. The Parish Priest got the grotto built and he put a statue there too. Then he put a cement wall around it. Then when the new priest came he put a gravel path all round the grotto … There are some nice trees growing by the well. It was in very bad condition a few years ago, cows drink the water, But when the new priest came he cleaned it up. (313/314:0417: Schools’ Folklore Collection )

On completion of the work there was a celebratory Mass held on the 8th September 1935. Further improvements were carried out in the 1960s under the direction of Father James Enright:

… The site was landscaped, and paths and sunken gardens added, with religious symbolism linked to specific locations. The sunken gardens represented the Garden of Eden, and the raised flower beds represented Mount Sinai and Mount Tabor. Shelters were built and an altar of Valentia slate was provided as a gift from the people of Fr. Enright’s previous parish of Valentia Island. (Diocese of Kerry ie)

These two photos are from the Duchás Photographic Collection and although they are undated I suspect they are from the 1960s, shortly after the renovations had taken place.

The children, dressed very smartly, are paying the rounds in the first image, then completing the rounds by saying the rosary in front of the grotto.

When Walter and Mary Brennan visited in the 1980s they noted that it was a highly developed Marian well. In their book, Crossing the Circle at the Holy Wells, they explained what this meant:

…when we use the term ‘highly developed’ we refer to well sites in which the natural setting has been reordered or overlaid by human construction. This is typical of many Marian wells , and Ballyheigue is an excellent examples  In effect, the entire site has been arranged into a garden that depicts, through a process of walking from plot to plot, the entire Christian salvation history from the Garden of Eden to the crucifixion of Christ. The garden is neatly laid out and well cared for … The well is situated at the end of the process that coincides with the entrance to the site … Instructions for walking the rosary path indicate that the rounds ends at the birth of Mary. In other words, from the perspective of this ritual, the salvation history culminated with the nativity of the Mother of God.

The site remains beautifully cared for. The stone grotto, its layers filled with quartz, still offers protection to the serene BVM.

The well lies in front of the grotto and can be approached via a couple of steps, or the water can be collected from an array of cups and jugs dangling from a barrier. The water is sparkling clear, reputed to cure many ills but specifically sore eyes. A blessed trout is also said to live in the water, an excellent portent for anyone who sees it.

Shelters line the garden and over in the car park, lines of benches wait expectantly for tomorrow’s pilgrims. The altar of Valentia slate now has its own covered enclosure, people busily bringing flowers and candles.

There is another shelter which turns out to be for the choir.

in 2016 a few more changes were made when the field near the well was turned into the  Gairdín Mhuire, Mary’s Garden, the entrance marked by a depiction of the Last Supper flanked by a pelican and lamb, both Christian symbols of sacrifice. Inside the garden relics from other major Marian shrine are embedded on posts, starting with the relic of Our Lady of Ephesus. On the other side the Stations of the Cross line the way, now part of the devotions.

We resisted invitations to the Pattern Thrasher Gathering, though it did look tempting,

and continued on to admire the sunset at Banna Strand.

Pattern Day

Mass was scheduled for 11am. We wandered into town at around 10am and already everywhere was busy, a steady stream of people making their way to the well, the car parks filling.

The atmosphere in town was festive and good natured, everyone welcoming each other and commenting on the fine morning. I wandered down with others. The stall just outside the site was doing a roaring trade selling a large variety of devotional items.

Eventually, hundreds of people gathered; everyone in the community was represented from babies in slings to teenage lads in tracksuits to old ladies being lead carefully in, fold up chairs provided. One group had set off from Tralee at 6am and walked the 17.5 kilometres, arriving with time to spare and looking spritely. The whole site was crammed, every available seat taken, here and in the adjacent car park.

People were already paying the rounds. Traditionally three rounds were paid, walking in a clockwise circle, reciting the rosary. The final rosary was said in front of the grotto.

To pay a round a person starts at the well by saying one Our Father and three Hail Marys then a rosary whilst going once around the well, then two other rosaries one for each circuit round the well, the final decade being recited whilst kneeling before the well. ( 025/26:0417: Schools’ Folklore Collection)

The water was then taken up in the jugs, either drunk or applied to face and hands. Many people seemed to be collecting it in bottles for later use. Finally the statue of Our Lady was approached, pilgrims touching her feet, her cloak and then clasping her hands. Some left slips of paper in her hands, others kissed her face.

Offerings were once made:

Long ago people used to leave medals, rosary beads, hairpins, pennies and tassels of shawls, but its money they leave there now.

Today’s offerings seemed to be mainly candles and flowers, although photos and notes were also left.

The atmosphere was jolly, a gathering of the community where strangers were also welcomed,  but devotions were intense and sincere.

Mass was concelebrated by Bishop Ray Browne, Bishop of Kerry, and local clergy. Some of the first prayers were for the Kerry football team playing in the replay final against Dublin on the following saturday! (Sadly they since lost the match though it was a good one.) The main themes were of love and gratefulness for family, friends and community. And this did seem a remarkable community.

After the solemnity of the mass, the custom was to go back into town:

In former times there were events such as horse-racing on the strand, hurling contests (this part of Kerry is a hurling enclave), and in the mid 1900s, an aeríocht, or festival of music and song. Nowadays there is little organised entertainment. People will amble in a kind of north Kerry passeggiata, dropping into the pubs, pausing at the stalls and chatting at leisure with old friends, neighbours and returned emigrants. It has always been more of an assembly or gathering, an aonach even, than a festival. Even in these secular days, there is an underlying appreciation of a communal celebration hallowed by history, a golden thread which links the living with those who have passed on. The prevailing atmosphere is one of respect for the heritage of the parish, for the beliefs of others, for the ancestors, for the holy well, for continuity, for renewal and for the cycle of life. (The Irish Times, 2nd September 2013)

True to tradition stalls lined the seafront and that’s where everyone headed after devotions were completed. A huge variety of wares were on offer from clothes to trinkets, chips to ice creams with roundabouts for the small children to enjoy. There were even two fortune tellers. Music was scheduled in all the pubs and I suspect the craic went on long into the night. A happy and holy pattern day indeed.

Crubeen Day

On the day after the pattern it was traditional to eat crubeens. Richard, our host, had to explain what this delicacy was – pigs trotters! Another reference to the changing season, the pig had been killed and these bits remained to be savoured!  Apparently they make the perfect bar food to be enjoyed with your Guinness or Murphys! Here’s the recipe!  I’ll stick to the cream pies!

Right well I mind the harvest time

in Ballyheigue so gay,

The beauty of that distant clime

on Blessed Lady’s Day.

To see the people going to Mass

All in their best attire,

Regardless of their rank or class

would any soul inspire.

The afternoon went quickly on

as some had news to tell,

And others for the day had gone

to visit Ladys Well.

With evening came the music sweet

of jigs and reels galore,

and then to make the day complete

we’d hear the songs of yester yore.

Patrick O Leary, 1907. Former inhabitant of Ballyheigue who emigrated to the USA.

And sign of the times, pattern day 2020 midst Covid-19. Thanks to Gail Tangey for permission to use her photos.

Many thanks to Richard Hartnett for his invaluable help and knowledge.

The location of this well can be found in the Gazetteer.