A day out in Glenville with CHAS

I’ve been a member of the Cork Historical & Archaeological Society (CHAS) for some time now but have never ventured out on one of their many interesting expeditions. When I saw they were going on an outing to Glenville in North Cork I was intrigued, especially as one of the places on the itinerary was St John’s Well in Doonpeter. I last visited this fascinating and extensive site in 2017 and had an adventurous walk to the well from the Mass rock, getting lost (the good people I reckon) and then encountering frisky cattle.

Today we assembled outside the handball alley in Glenville, itself an archaeological monument, dating from around 1900. Handball is apparently a truly indigenous Irish sport, played since medieval times, but now also popular in America and Mexico!

We then drove to the start of the walk. I was impressed with all the new signage on the site, and realised that there was another easier way to approach the well – I think my previous quest fell into the: if I was going there I wouldn’t start from here category.

It was a marvellous walk through green and rolling pasture with some impressive views and pleasant company.

We arrived at the entrance to the site and John Sheehan, our leader, spoke of its history and how it was probably sited within a ringfort – the dun in doonpeter being a give away. I won’t go into all the details here as I have l ready covered most of it in the original blog but it was good to see everywhere so well tended, with new signage.

The holy well was in good condition, the water clear and fresh and John told us that the annual mass on St John’s Eve, 23rd June, had been celebrated this year as was traditional.

It’s interesting to compare with this photo from the Schools’ ‘Folklore Collection of 1938 where a lot more white quartz seems to be in evidence.

The well holds a cure for sores and general aches and pains. Three rounds are required, stopping off at each of the five cross-inscribed stones, which I had missed on my first visit. It’s an octave so eight consecutive visits are needed.

We then walked along the old Famine path towards the Mass rock. This was built during 1847/48 by those already desperately in need of food. Over 40 people, women as well as men, died in their efforts and are buried up in the graveyard at Doonpeter.

It was a good 2km walk through beautiful hazel woodland, following the river Bride. Aoife struck up a lament on her fiddle and we sat for a minute or two in reflection, a poignant moment.

At one point we traversed an interesting bridge made out of an old railway sleeper or two!

The Mass rock lies in a spectacular position down by the river, steep steps leading down to it.

I was surprised to see that a new grotto had sprung up in the adjacent rock face. Apparently this materialised during Covid and is beautifully kept and covered in offerings.

The Rosary is recited here every night.

Candles were lit on the Mass rock and two joss sticks added their heady perfume to the air.

John pointed out some features I had missed on my first visit – three deep bowls cut into the rock at the edge of the river, looking very much like bullauns. I can find no information about them.

We finished the day with a visit to Grenville House, graciously shown around by the Silvia Bence-Jones, whose family have lived here for nearly 100 years. Dating from the late 18th century with 19th century extensions and elaborations, it remains very much in its original condition and style – magnificent stately rooms full of interesting and ornate details, richly painted colours and a maze of tiny rooms leading off who knows where. It has an air of faded grandeur and is none the less for that.

I especially liked the chapel -the little statue of the BVM came from their old house, Annemount, which burnt down in the 1940s – she was the only thing that survived!

A most enjoyable and varied day, with thanks to CHAS.

The location of the well and Mass rock can be found in the Gazetteer.