In the Hoofprints of St Manchán: a trip to County Offaly

We’re just back from a short but action-packed few days in County Westmeath which turned out to be full of wonders and astonishment. Perhaps the most amazing was to be found enroute to the early monastic site of Lemanaghan, actually in County Offaly.

St Manchán’s Shrine, Boher

The first stop was at the little church in Boher, a short distance from Ballycumber in a very rural area. Pleasant and unprepossessing on the exterior, it offers no clues as to the treasure that lies within – one of the finest examples of Irish medieval art to be found anywhere and it’s the real thing.

This exquisite reliquary was made in the early 12C, commissioned by the High King Turlough Ó Connor to contain the precious bones of St Manchán – three are still within. It’s made of yew and is reminiscent of a gable or tent-shaped shrine, fabulously covered in rich and energetic Hiberno-Norse meets Romanesque designs. The two main sides each have a large cross with a central boss and bosses on each arm, magnificently covered in the most intricate designs. These are in bronze but in many places there are gilt and enamelled details.

Eleven figures, skinny bearded males mainly sporting kilts, are placed on one side. Originally there were 52 figures covering both faces but they have been lost. Maybe some will yet come to light for in 1869 the eleventh figure, the one on the far left, was discovered in the home of Robert Day, a famous Cork collector, and attached to the casket – slightly aloof from the others. The men are probably saints or bishops and the circular rivets attaching them to the shrine can still be seen.

The gable ends are covered in an incredible network of astonishing designs – almost too fine for the eye to cope with and extremely hard to photograph.

The reliquary was designed to be portable and was hoisted onto two poles – the rings are still there – and was probably paraded around on St Manchán’s feast day, 24 January. It is thought that the bones may also have been made accessible for pilgrims to touch and venerate on this date. This entry from the Schools’ Folklore Collection describes the shrine but also gives some information about the traditional keepers whose family had connections with St Manchán:

In Boher Church the Shrine of St Manchan is kept. It is a big casket, with slanted sides. There is beautiful workmanship on every side of it, old Celtic designs and interlacing. These are worked in gold and brass. There is a cross in front and another at the back, and at the four corners of these and in the middle there are embossed circles. The crosses are like this ( pencil illustration .)There are ten brass figures in the front of the Shrine, some more having been there once. The shrine stands on four little legs, and just above these there are four brass rings, for lifting the shrine. The Shrine is suppose to contain a relic of St Manchan, his shin bone. It was in the possession of Mr Mooney, The Doon, Ballinahown, Athlone up to some years ago, but the present owner gave the shrine into the care of the Parish Priest of Ballinahown, Athlone. While the Mooneys had the Shrine they engaged a certain family, called Buchallys to mind it, as these had been shepherds of St. Manchan. The descendants of this family still live near Boher, Parish of Ballinahown, County Offaly. They are distuingished from the other families of the same name, because they are called Buchallys, whereas the others are called Buckleys. It is said that the Shrine was made in the monastery of Clonmacnoise. (SFC:146:0810)

The extract mentions ten figures which is odd, as the eleventh should have been attached at this point.

What is so pleasing is that this magnificent reliquary has been in the parish for 900 years more or less and is still here and hasn’t been whisked away to the National Museum in Dublin.

Once you can tear your eyes away from the shrine you then notice the dazzling stained glass windows. Five panels were commissioned by the parish in 1930 and they are by the Harry Clarke Studios, each created under the direction of the studio manager, Cecil Simmonds, at an overall cost of £330. Although not designed or painted by Harry Clarke himself, he probably oversaw their development, and they contain all his trademark flourishes: rich colours, exquisite details and charismatic figures. This triptych shows the BVM, the Sacred Heart and St Joseph.

The panel behind the shrine is of St Manchán himself, a slight world weary feel to him.

Note the cow gazing out from the roundel directly above the saint’s head. There is a story attached and Róisin Ní Liathain from Lemanaghan School collected this version from her father on the 4th April 1938:

There are a lot of old stories about St Manchans cow. The cow was a very good cow for giving milk and supplied the people of Lemonaghan with milk. One night as St Manchan was in bed some person came and stole the cow. When St. Manchan went to look at the cow she was gone. When St Manchan saw that his cow was gone he went off to look for her. He was able to find her because she left the tracks of her hoofs on the stones. St Manchan soon came to a gate and the foot-steps went through the gate. St Manchan went into the house and he saw a big pot on the fire. He told the cow to get up and she came together again. After that St Manchan never gave milk to the people of Lemonaghan. The people of Lemonaghan never sold milk after that. The people of Lemonaghan say that it was not they but the people of Killmoghan who stole the cow. (SFC:140:0810)

It’s generally believed that it was the neighbouring village that stole the cow, jealous of her abundance of milk, and that once she had been recovered she was none the worse for wear except for a slight limp, a small bone having remained in the pot! We shall come to the hoof prints shortly.

At the saint’s feet lies the reliquary, shown with all figures intact, literally shining forth with beauty, energy and light.

There is so much more that could be said but Gail Tangney alerted me to a series of short films produced by Offaly Heritage and this one focuses on the shrine and is enlightening.

The visit to Boher church was just the appetiser for we were on our way to Lemanaghan itself. Incidentally the place name comes from Liath-Manchain  meaning the grey place of Manchán, and it still contains an abundance of riches – the remains of an early church, decorated cross slabs, a sacred tree, two bullauns, a togher, a little oratory dedicated to the saint’s mother and of course, a holy well.

The church is much ruined but there are many decorated cross slabs to be seen, including a remarkable example in the graveyard complete with complex spiral designs.

I was especially delighted to see the little shrine that had developed in one of the windows, complete with a plastic cow!

St Manchán’s holy well & tree

We wandered down to the holy well, dedicated to St Manchán. The first thing you notice is the huge old ash tree, covered in offerings – rags, rosaries, medals, masks, photographs. It is a bile, a sacred tree, a small piece of its bark believed to protect the carrier, especially against fire:

There is an old ash tree beside the well. People say that the tree was knocked down one night and grew up again next day. People take a piece of this tree home and put it up in their house and cow houses. (SFC:147:0810)

It curves over the stone-lined well which is is subterranean, approached down a flight of narrow, steep steps, remodelled in the 1930s. The origin story is that St Manchán struck a rock with his staff and the waters gushed forth. Another story relates how the well was in fact blessed by the saint. Whatever the case, it is still much frequented today. Metal railings offer some protection and ease for pilgrims and a low bar allows you to hold on whilst collecting the water.

The water was cold but strong smelling, a distinct sulphurous whiff coming from it but a bag full of plastic bottles had been left on the railing for those who wished to avail.

The waters of the well are reputed to cure a wide variety of ailments but it’s particularly effective for sore eyes, neuralgia, cancer and warts. To obtain a cure you have to apply water to the affected part and walk three times around the well, no doubt reciting the appropriate prayers. Mr John Egan gives some interesting insights in this extract from the Schools’ Folklore Collection:

1) St Manchan’s well is in the townland of Killantubrid ( the church of the well ) in the County Offaly, parish of Milane and Ballinahown.2) There was an old church near the well which is only about four feet deep and shaded by an old whitethorn. There is a large flag sloping down to the the water’s edge. It never goes dry. 3) St Manchan is said to have blessed the well. 4) People visit the well still to obtain cures of ailments, especially of toothaches and neuralgia. 10) The water is applied to the affected part is drunk and is taken away. 12) Offerings are made after praying to St Manchan. 13) Ribbons are usually put on the thorns of the bush as offerings. 16) It is the general belief in the district that St Manchan’s cow drank at this well when she was being driven away by the robber from Leamanchan. The tracks of her feet and knees are still to be seen on the flag. (SFC:254:0810)

St Manchán’s feast day is the 24th January and was once strictly observed in the parish:

Traditions about St Manchan. It is remarkable how the memory of St Manchan is venerated to the present day in the district of Lemanaghan. His anniversary, 24th January, is observed as a strict holy day. The people attend Mass and abstain from servile works. They pray to him fervently and are convinced that many special favours are granted through his intercession. (SFC:004:0745)

Another in the series by Offaly Heritage focuses on the holy well.

As we were lingering, two men came to fill their bottles and we chatted. They were both regular visitors, the younger man visited often as his grandparents were buried in the graveyard and the other man came out of respect for his mother who had loved the well. They both said they always had a bottle in the house in case it was needed.

In front of the well is a large bullaun stone, we cleared out the leaves and it was interesting to note that it contained the same sulphurous smell as the well. We then wandered down the old boreen or togher which the men told us had recently been cleared, it once being very overgrown.

This is a truly ancient stone-lined track leading down through what was one bogland to a small stone oratory known as St Mella’s cell, where St Manchán’s mother may have had her nunnery. As we wandered down the track we noted impressions in the stones, one strewn with offerings of money. Of course – the hoof prints of St Manchán’s cow, still to be seen and still venerated!

St Mella’s cell is a small ,chunkily-made rather attractive little oratory, quiet and peaceful.

St. Mella’s house is about a quarter of a mile from the church on the east side in a place called Kell. It is connected with the church by St. Manchan’s Tochar. The four walls are standing but the roof is gone. On one of the steps going into the cell there are marks of a heel. There are also the print of toes on two stones in the cell. (SFC:134:0810)

There was just one other thing to explore on our way back, another bullaun lies in front of a circular wall containing a tree, a junction between two small roads, We watched as a large lorry expertly but very carefully negotiate avoiding it.

Even the little derelict school, yes dedicated to St Manchán, has a certain charm. So many marvels in one small space.

St Manchán himself seems to have been a gentle soul and this poem is attributed to him:

The Hermit’s Song

I wish, O Son of the living God, O ancient, eternal King,
For a hidden little hut in the wilderness that it may be my dwelling. An all-grey lithe little lark to be by its side,
A clear pool to wash away sins through the grace of the Holy Spirit.
Quite near, a beautiful wood around it on every side,
To nurse many-voiced birds, hiding it with its shelter.
A southern aspect for warmth, a little brook across its floor,
A choice land with many gracious gifts such as be good for every plant.
A few men of sense we will tell their number
Humble and obedient. to pray to the King :
Four times three, three times four, fit for every need,
Twice six in the church, both north and south :
Six pairs besides myself
Praying for ever the King who makes the sun shine.
A pleasant church and with the linen altar-cloth, a dwelling for God from Heaven;
Then, shining candles above the pure white Scriptures.
One house for all to go to for the care of the body,
Without ribaldry, without boasting, without thought of evil.
This is the husbandry I would take, I would choose, and will not hide it:
Fragrant leek, hens, salmon, trout, bees.
Raiment and food enough for me from the King of fair fame,
And I to be sitting for a while praying God in every place.

This was read out at the funeral of Manchán Magan -visionary, writer, folklorist, traveller, filmmaker, ancient soul whose untimely death occurred recently and it seems appropriate to pay my respects here. He will be hugely missed but what an impressive legacy he has left us and how fortunate I was to spend Valentine’s day 2023 with him in an obscure field in East Cork. A memory I will always treasure.

The location of this well can be found in the Gazetteer.